Today we left Port Macquarie and headed even further north up the Pacific Highway. It was another very hot day. There were no detours we wished to take en route, so the journey was very straightforward. We stopped off at Kempsey Tourist Information and watched a video of the history of Akubra hat making – “the essential Aussie headgear” then went into the town to find the hats and see just how special they are.
While we were there, we asked the information lady who Slim Dusty was. We’d heard his name mentioned at Karuah and again at Timbertown, so obviously he was an Aussie of some distinction. He was a Country & Western singer who has become in Aussie eyes their equivalent of Johnny Cash in USA. He was instrumental in starting the national annual C&W festival held at Tamworth, due west of Port Macquarie and on the New England Highway, in January. The area north of Sydney seems to be C&W territory as there was a festival at Newcastle the day we arrived which is why we had to travel a bit further north to get accommodation. We’ve also passed signs advertising C&W events at several points on the way north.
Right – back to Akubra hats - they are made from rabbit fur, so any of you animal lovers out there, please don’t read any further! Each hat takes the fur of 11 rabbits.
(I don’t know where they get them all from but the Aussies do consider rabbits as an introduced pest so perhaps this is one way to get rid of them!) The fur is removed from the pelts then vacuum moulded into felt on a former, before going through a very complicated process to reduce the size, add colour, shape the crown and stiffen the brim, then the finishing touches of edging, ribbon and feathers are added. So you see, I did listen! The hats are very special and so are the prices – luckily, Tom couldn’t find one that fitted or had the right shape; relief all round – more money for me to spend on crafty bits!!
We also had 2 of the nicest stickies we’ve enjoyed all holiday, served with the hottest coffees we’ve had. That set us up very well for the next part of the journey – to Nambucca Heads. This was the port to which the timber cut in the forests was driven for loading onto ships and sent up and down the coast or overseas. After a decline when this trade came to an end, the town regenerated itself as a holiday destination and there are many large holiday parks around. We drove down a very quiet tree lined road just after entering the town, and ended up on a long riverfront leading to the sea. There was an enclosed area of seawater which holidaymakers from the nearby park used as a swimming pool, then a long rock lined walkway round to the seafront. Visitors are encouraged to leave messages on these giant boulders and they form a very colourful wall, know as the VWall. In the town, there is a stretch of wall outside the police station which has been decorated with a mosaic of tiny tiles, very like the benches and tables we saw at Bondi Beach. We drove up to Captain Cook's Lookout where there are magnificent views north and south over Beilby and Shelly beaches and to the headlands at either end. The beaches were almost unoccupied but we read that there are very nasty currents there as well as sharks not far off shore – perhaps NOT a good idea to swim there. We retraced our steps (or rather our wheel tracks) and went to Rotary Lookout just a little further west. This overlooks the VWall and the enclosed swimming area (the Lagoon), as well as part of the harbour. Having had our fill of views of JABB (Just Another B****y Beach as Tom calls it!) we finished the day’s travel at the Bells Motel in Coffs Harbour. An unpretentious little motel, perfectly clean and comfy but without the pizzaz of the Koala Tree – but it has a small but usable swimming pool. I didn’t try it out when we arrived but will be sure to tomorrow.
Tom’s sorted out the photos and I’ve sorted out the next lot of things to do and we’ve been out to dinner at the local ExServicemen’s Club (RSL). What a place!! It’s huge, fairly new (2000), and has the most gaming machines we’ve ever seen in one place! It also has two bowls greens, being very well used while we watched, a coffee shop, very large dining room, bar and a whole second storey which we were unable to investigate. The food was top class and 2 steak meals with a starter cost us under AU$50. Definitely the place to eat and drink. That’s it for today – brace yourselves for the next episode tomorrow!! Goodnight all.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
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