Friday, December 18, 2009

Christmas Message 2009

ttomdavison@ntlworld.com
maggiedavison@ntlworld.com


Well, here we are almost at the end of 2009, another year gone, and what have the Davison clan been up to? Certainly not as much as the previous year but plenty to keep us busy. So get ready for the annual epistle – find a good glass (maybe even a bottle) of wine and something to nibble on and lets begin…..

Over the period of last Christmas, seasonal bugs hit most of the extended clan. Christmas was spent with Judy, Glen, Andy, Ninx and Scarlett accompanied by much coughing, headaches and general malaise. Tom and I were mercifully spared the bugs during this time so just helped administer pills, potions and TLC whenever and wherever required. Ninx was so disappointed that Scarlett was so poorly that she didn’t fully enjoy all her pressies. Andy had been made redundant just before Christmas so knew he had to start the search for a job in the depressed market, so was understandably not at his best. However, we still managed to celebrate being together.

Amy, Mario and Izzy were in Germany with Winfried and Ursula and all were also under the weather, so much so that they had to delay their return by a day. Once back at Luton Airport, Amy found that the car battery was dead, but was greatly heartened by the cheerful AA man who attended very promptly, and the car park staff, who waived the extra day’s fee – better not tell BAA, they’ll probably demand it back with interest!!

Our plans to all get together at Amy’s on 29th Dec fell through because of the bugs, but again, Tom and I were still standing so helped make it a part family celebration.

On 10 January, Tom and I departed for 3 weeks in Madeira, looking forward to the “Garden Isle”. Everything went smoothly until we reached overhead the island. Due to adverse weather conditions (!!!) we couldn’t land. We circled for a while, then eventually flew on to the island of Porto Santo, only a few miles away, where we landed, in brilliant sunshine, waiting for a break in the weather at Funchal. There was almost a riot when we were not allowed off the plane (security reasons) and one couple were threatened with arrest when they actually tried to disembark. You can imagine the commotion when the pilot announced that if we couldn’t fly into Funchal within the next half hour, we would have to return to Stansted! There was not enough accommodation on this small island for us to be put up overnight, and the pilot’s flying hours would not allow him to delay beyond this time. Tom and I were quite relaxed about the whole thing – well, what can you do? – but some people got very aggressive, quite frightening, really.

Anyway, luckily, the storm above Madeira abated and we eventually landed over 7 hours later than we should have – to beautiful sunshine! The drive from the airport into Funchal is quite spectacular, and a lot smoother than in the past, as a new stretch of motorway has been built linking the two.

We could not fault the smooth operation of getting a full coachload of tired, rather irritable people into various hotels scattered around the city, but we were rather taken aback when we reached our hotel and the bus reversed up this steep slope to the entrance. We knew that Madeira is a “hilly” island, but were not warned that there were 150 steps from road level to the entrance – we counted them later!

I shan’t go into further details here, as several of you have already read the saga of our holiday from our blog (any of you who are interested enough will find it on this same website prior to this entry). Enough to say that we then succumbed to the bugs that everyone else had had over Christmas, so spent a week of our hols in our bedroom. Overall, we weren’t impressed with Madeira, but looking back, it was not the ideal time to go, as it was low season. There were flowers around but not in such profusion; every business was desperate for custom, so we were accosted wherever we went; the Euro was strong against the pound so it was expensive and we weren’t really fit enough to walk as much as we’d wanted. There were some brilliant moments but on the whole, not a place we will be returning to.

Back to UK on 1st February – to snow! We only just made it home that evening before it really hit and for once we had quite a covering in Bedford, though not as much as other places. Later in the month, we celebrated Izzy’s 3rd birthday – how time flies.

So the routine life for us retirees continues – when did we ever find the time to go to work? What with St John duties and social activities, Tom’s Masonic commitments, his monthly website work for David, my sewing “business”, cardmaking and scrapbooking, not to mention my casualty role for the St John FAW courses several days per month….so it goes on.

March saw Andy in a new job –hooray! – he’s a Contracts Manager for NCP’s street parking division, in London. He’d interviewed for a similar role before they moved to Yorkshire, but this time got the job. There was no actual appointment immediately, so he spent several weeks doing courses (including one on how to write up parking tickets!) in and around London and staying with Amy and Mario, which was lovely for them to spend some time together. Izzy fell in love with her Uncle Andy. It also meant he could babysit for her, allowing Amy and Mario a few nights out. He and Ninx decided not to try to sell the house as the market was so depressed, but would move south and stay with Judy and Glen at Wellington until there is an improvement. They got a tenant for the house so at least could just about cover the mortgage, and we now have a garage full of furniture, etc.

In April, we went to Cornwall to visit Hugh and Maggie in their new home – and had a week of rain and wind, so didn’t go out much but it was good to spend time with them after so long.

When we returned, Tom had a cancerous growth cut out of his back and spent a couple of days feeling a bit “crook”, but it was not a malignant one so all is well.

In May, it was Scarlett’s 2nd birthday, and we managed a family get-together here – the weather was beautiful and the girls enjoyed playing together in the garden.
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Izzy growing up too fast?!!

Scarlett holding court!
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The terrible twosome - pink's the thing!!
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Despite the fact that they don’t see each other very often, they are so close, and it’s a real pleasure to watch them interact. We had a little bit of drama when Izzy ate some cashew nuts, and showed the early signs of an anaphylactic reaction! Amy, Mario, Tom and Izzy disappeared to A&E with great haste, but returned less than an hour later with Izzy all sorted. The hospital staff were amazing, whisking Izzy off as soon as they saw the problem and after a strong dose of Piriton and a consultation with the paediatrician, all was pronounced sorted but to keep her away from any nuts until she’d had some tests. (These have since been carried out and she is sensitive to cashews and pistachios, but no others, she just has to be careful. We are so pleased she doesn’t have the severe allergy that some people have.)

The following weekend, Tom did a sponsored walk for St John round Stewartby Lake, about 8 miles from here, dressed as a clown. Unfortunately, it was a horrid day, so no other walkers nor supporters turned out to cheer him on! But he walked 15 miles and raised £840 all on his own (not least thanks to Fitch for donating £500 from their charities fund), coming home soaked and very tired, and rather dispirited.

At the end of the month, it was Liz’s 60th celebrations, so we stayed with her and
David and enjoyed a weekend of good company, wonderful weather, fine food and lots of laughs. The rest of our side of the family arrived for the afternoon on Sunday, and the 2 girls played in the pool and ran around until they were almost too exhausted to move! A very fine time indeed.

June saw us once again on the way to the villa with Bruce and Carole. This time, we drove down through France to the west of Paris, stopping off in Chartres on the first night and travelling over the Millau bridge – truly an impressive edifice – down to Narbonne for the second night. Thanks to Dora the explorer (our TomTom), and of course Tom’s brilliant driving, we had un uneventful journey and arrived at the villa in glorious sunshine. (David had been down there the week before and they experienced some of the worst storms the region has ever had!) Then followed 2 weeks of relaxing, soaking up the sun and generally overindulging ourselves – well, that’s what holidays are for, aren’t they?!

On the return journey we once again stopped in Chartres and had time for a visit to the cathedral and a short walk round the old city centre. The cathedral is awe inspiring but will be even more so in a few years time when they have finished cleaning it all up. The few areas they have already worked on show how amazing it was originally.

July was once again back to routine with still plenty activity to keep us from getting bored. At the end of the month, Amy started her new job. For some time she’d been fed up at Fitch where she was doing a data inputting job (on her old PA’s salary! as they hadn’t wanted to lose her.) Her old boss, Kim, had asked if Amy knew anyone who was looking for an office admin job. Kim and her partner, Henrietta, had set up Lily’s Kitchen, an organic animal food company in March and it was doing so well, they needed an extra pair of hands. Amy leapt at the chance and although the post meant she would have to take a drop in salary and work an extra day a week, after consultation with Mario, it was decided she should apply. She had what she says was a “proper interview”, and was offered the position there and then! She started at the end of July and has been so happy since.

We saw both sets of children and families in August although separately, then went up to Teeside to spend a week with Ruth and Kit. The weather was very mixed while we were there but we managed to get out for a couple of walks, and visited Castle Howard too. It’s such a lovely area of the country.

Once again back home, we signed up with the Retirement Education Centre, Tom to do a German course so he can converse a bit better with Ursula and Winfried when they visit and me to do Tai Chi as I want to do some exercise but find it hard to get up from the floor once I get down! The Rothsay Ramblers are part of the REC and we joined them at the same time. Walks are arranged every Monday and range from 3 miles to 6 miles, divided into groups according to fitness and ability. These activities all started in September so added to our already full schedule.

We had a lovely day with Jane and Peter Edwards and their extended family on a beautiful Sat in Sept. Nick and his family were back in UK for a visit from NZ. We hadn’t seen them since we were out there last year and the 2 children had grown so much. Peter and Jane’s daughter, Angela and her husband, Nick, were there too with their very new son, Connor. It is so nice to be included as honorary members of their family.

Later in September we heard the sad news that Dorothy, wife of the retired Head of Musical Services in the RAF, Barrie Hingley, had died and we attended her funeral on the 23rd at Ruislip. She was a lovely lady, one of life’s really nice people but had suffered from MS for over 25years.

At the end of the month I spent a week with Amy and Mario and went to work with Amy! As I already said, Liliy’s Kitchen was only started in March, but with its sudden take-off, they had not got round to setting up a proper computer accounts system. I was brought in to enter all the customer data and accounts history. I was using an Apple laptop (different layout to Microsoft) on a MYOB (Mind Your Own Business) system which I had never seen before. On top of that, it was wireless and the connection was bad so it kept stalling. For the first couple of days I think I entered about a 20th of everything I’d been asked to, but once Kim had sorted it out, I finished it all and added all the data that Amy had collected during the week. Although it was hard work for a retiree (!! – all that travelling on the tube) I enjoyed it and it gave me an insight into what Amy was doing.

Ruth’s daughter, Angela was posted to the Falklands from mid-November for 4 months, so we went up to Grantham to visit her before she left. Mitchell, her and Curt’s son, would be 2 shortly after she left so they had an early birthday party for him. As things have turned out, she was told 2 days before she was due to go that the posting had been cancelled and just to go back to work! Such is life in the armed forces these days – short notice postings and even shorter notice cancellations! Talking of armed forces, I hope all of you are wearing something red on Fridays to show your support for all the troops currently posted in war zones. We may not agree with the reasons behind their presence, but we certainly support them. I find it hard to watch the bodies being brought home and feel so much sympathy for the wounded and maimed who come home, and their families – their lives will never be the same. Meanwhile this b****y government seem to be more concerned about running our lives with more and more “elf” and safety measures which can no more be policed than fly in the air… Here endeth the party political rant!!

Hugh and Maggie came to visit us in early November, but on the way here, Hugh suffered a mild stroke. He was fortunate in that, when it happened, although he was driving, they were in Milton Keynes, on a roundabout and right behind them was an ambulance! Talk about getting help FAST! They were also within a few hundred yards of the hospital. We were able to get there within an hour and spent the next 8 hours in the hospital. Their daughters, Debbi and Jenny were able to get there too. After a night spent there, Hugh was allowed home to us where they both spent the next 2 weeks, waiting for Bedford to organise an MRI scan, which never materialised. So, having improved tremendously, Maggie drove them home to Helston where he has started the procedure to get a scan in Truro. I feel the NHS is failing sadly in many ways and it was so difficult to sit and watch while Hugh was so let down. There is so much emphasis put on getting help FAST, then the system doesn’t follow through. There is nothing worse than NOT knowing what’s happening. I think we can all deal with even bad news when we know what it is.

After our rather worrying time, it was nice to go to Norwich to Pat and John for a weekend culminating in an RAF band concert in the Theatre Royal. It was superb but we did miss Barrie Hingley’s sure touch as conductor. Their star soloist, Matthew Little, whom some of you may have seen perform at the Edinburgh Tattoo, is a wonderful singer and as for the xylophone player – Evelyn Glennie, eat you heart out!! We all waved our Union Flags with gusto during Land of Hope and Glory, some of us with just a trace of dampness in the eyes. The only downside of the w/e was that Pat’s neighbour reversed into the back of our Mondeo, taking out the offside light cluster and damaging two of the panels! She says she saw that P and J had visitors, then just got in her Range Rover and reversed straight into it!! It was drivable but not entirely legal, but we got home in daylight on Mon without being stopped. It has since been fixed.

So here we are in December again. I have made ALL my Christmas cards, many recycled from all the lovely ones we received last year and once again am putting this letter on the blog as it saves paper, printer ink and most of all, paying lots of extra postage. I do miss receiving the annual letter from those of you who don’t seem to have the time anymore. We may not manage to meet up but I still like to think of you and your families in your various “doings” so buck up and get writing!!

We have several Christmassy events between now and the Day, which we are both looking forward to and I’m sure most of you will be celebrating at least once, so bottoms up whatever you’re drinking. We shall be spending Christmas Day with David and Liz, and getting together with Amy and Andy and their families on Boxing Day with Judy and Glen at Wellington. We’re all hoping that none of us is ill this year and we hope the same for you all too.

One piece of good news to leave you with is that Amy is pregnant again. It is early days but the signs are good, but after 2 miscarriages, we all have our fingers crossed for them, and if any of you pray, please add her to your prayers. Baby no. 2 is expected in July.

So on that hopeful note, we wish you all a very happy festive season and hope that 2010 will be at least a peaceful and enjoyable year for you.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Monday 2 February

Well, we’re back home – to wonderful snowy weather! As we were coming into land at Stansted, we could see the snow storms blowing in but got home before the bad stuff really hit.

Anyway, just to finish off our holiday blog – on Saturday, the weather was still very cloudy and a bit windy. The Atlantic was a bit more choppy than we had seen it on this side of the island, but, as we were sorting out all the papers we had collected during the last 3 weeks, then packing, it wasn’t too much of a problem. We did have a walk down to the nearest shopping area to purchase some souvenirs, but Madeira lace, which is exquisite, is so expensive it was out of the question, and other things are so tacky on the whole that we decided that our memories (and the blog of course) would have to suffice! (Just to give you an idea of the price of Madeira lace – we looked at a tablecloth, which would have fitted our dining table and it was over 2,000 euros! And this was by no means the most expensive!)

On Saturday evening, we had just returned from having dinner, when the power failed. The storm had been steadily worsening during the afternoon, and the winds were really high. Luckily, Tom had a couple of torches with him, so we could see enough to read by until the power returned 15 minutes later. We heard the next day that we had been lucky as some places had been without power for several hours. All night we were aware of the wind howling and when we went down for breakfast, we saw all the pool furniture had been blown into one corner and several of the sun loungers were at the bottom of the pool! However, the sun was shining and the wind had dropped which boded well for our flight.

We arrived at the airport to check in at 9.45 along with half of the island, it seemed! Funchal is not a large airport but there are quite a few flights daily. We left pretty much on time and landed at Stansted slightly ahead of ETA. David was waiting for us, and after a quick cup of tea with him and Liz, we drove home to our lovely warm house! Bruce, bless him had put the heating on full during the afternoon! So that was that – the end of a not particularly memorable holiday. We’ve decided that we’ll stick to home at the beginning of the year in future – we always seem to have a bug of some kind about then and, although it is nice to get away from the cold English weather, it’s no good if we spend time being ill.

Overview of Madeira.

The island has many attractions for the walkers and gardeners and probably the sun lovers during the summer months. Perhaps because we weren’t at our best, we found it hard work. It is very steep in most places and you certainly need a good level of fitness to get about. Away from Funchal, most of the villages and towns are suffering from varying degrees of poverty and this is quite apparent. The island depends on tourism for the major part of its income, and with the recession and the present exchange rate against the euro, the number of holiday makers is down and everyone in business is desperate to persuade the tourists to buy. We found the constant pressure, from restaurants especially, very annoying. Going into shops was also a trial as you were leapt on as soon as you stepped through the door and followed around. You couldn’t just browse, even if you said you were just looking.

On the plus side, if you want scenery and like walking and climbing, the views are fantastic. There are many walks which you can do yourself although some of the books showing routes are not as clear as they could be. But, as most of the walks are constantly used, the routes are clear on the ground. Following the levadas is interesting, and we only did easy ones but the access to them can often be far worse than the walks themselves and this is NOT made clear in the books. There are many walks that are recommended only to be undertaken with a guide because of the degrees of difficulty and also because the weather can change very rapidly. Visibility on even the lower hills can come down to metres within minutes. Be wary of recommended levels of difficulty. For example, the walk down from Eira de Serrado to Curral das Freiras is described in different leaflets/books as being “Easy”, “Strenuous” and “Taxing” – you take your pick! I found it hard on my knees and hips as it is an unrelenting downward climb over sometimes slippery ground and at all times uneven.

As the weather on the days we did our trips was cloudy on the tops, we didn’t get to see the best views but judging by the photos and other peoples’ experiences, they are worth seeing, and those we did see were breathtaking. If you hire a car, the driver will NOT be able to see the views as he/she will be concentrating too much on the roads! I thought NZ roads were winding and hilly, but these left them standing! They are very rough once you get away from the main areas and the edges are breaking away on some. The buses are great although we’re sure some of the drivers have death wishes, but there don’t appear to be many recorded accidents with buses. Everyone seems to drive in a good tempered way and are used to giving way to other traffic, and pedestrians in towns.

The paths in many of the places we saw have these small mosaic patterns laid in basalt and limestone – these get very slippery when wet, even on the flat.

The gardens are many and varied, but the cost of entrance can be high, as I said for Palheiro. In the spring and summer, they’re probably wonderful, but in January they were rather uninspiring even though the books say there is colour all year. Yes, there is some colour – bouganvilla was flowering, the strelitzias are everywhere and flowers we only see in certain seasons were blooming together, but it wasn’t as colourful as I’d hoped.

There are very few beaches, in fact the only one we saw was small, although we’re told there are a couple of others, so it’s not a seaside holiday destination. We saw very little for children or teenagers although there were a few families in our hotel. We met people who return to the island many times so obviously enjoy it very much, but we felt it was not somewhere we would return to. It’s also quite expensive to eat out and certainly to drink. Even local wine was not to be found under £4 a bottle in shops and in one very average restaurant we paid 18 euros for a bottle of house red! The same bottle in a different restaurant the following night was half the price.

So that’s it! Been there, done that, NOT bought the T-shirt, but we’re home in one piece. Hope you’ve got something out of our “blog” and no doubt, well find somewhere else to write about in the future.
Bye for now!

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Friday 30 January

What a peculiar day it has been, weatherwise. It was bright and sunny when we left the hotel and within 50m, it started to pour – still with the sun brightly shining! Then the clouds came and within 5 minutes, it was back to bright sunshine – and so it continued for the whole day. Cancelling any plans we had for a day of wandering Funchal’s back streets, we made a quick trip to the Chapel, which had been closed yesterday and hooray! it was open, so Tom took some piccies of the painted interior. That involved him lying on the floor while trying to focus the camera, on his little “gorilla”tripod, up at the ceiling – I think the priest who was on guard must have thought he was mad!

Since, as I say, the weather was being very unfriendly, we caught the bus to Madeira Shopping, “the largest shopping centre in Madeira”, which is out near Pico dos Barcelos where Andre took us to the viewpoint on Sunday. Most of the occupants of the bus were also making their way there, so it was a mass exodus on arrival! Well, it is quite big compared to the other shopping centres we’ve seen, but small in comparison to even normal town centres in UK. Mostly filled with dress and jewellery shops, no nice gift shops and nothing that we were drawn to purchase. We did have coffee and stickies, however, while watching alternate sunshine and pouring rain and gave up after an hour, catching the bus back down to Funchal centre.

Deciding to wait about 45 minutes for the hotel coach, we had another drink, in what has become our café of choice, the Apolo by the cathedral and watched more sun and showers while enjoying the repartee of the waiters with what was obviously their regular clientele. Couldn’t understand a word, but the interplay was most amusing!

In the evening, we returned to the White House for dinner, with more free Madeira wine from our 2 lovely “guest gatherers”, Sandra and Theresa. What a way to earn a living – accosting people in the streets and inveigling them in to eat, but the 2 of them seem to have quite a good success rate and other diners, like us, come back several times. We’ve promised to send them copies of the photos Tom took of them with me.
And that was the end of what is almost our last day here as tomorrow is sorting out our stuff and packing.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Thursday 29 January

Another very dull and chilly day today – the weather has really changed this week. After the lost day yesterday, I was determined to get out and see some more sights before we leave on Sunday.

On the way into town, we stopped off at the statue of “Sisi” which stands near the Casino. Sisi was the Princess Elizabeth, wife of Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria-Hungary. She came to Madeira in 1860, ostensibly for her health, but biographers speculate that she was in fact bored with court life and unhappy in her marriage, because she made a remarkable recovery, although she did die here. (Tom’s note – Now that’s what you really call a recovery.) She was the great aunt of Charles I who was the last Emperor of Austria-Hungary, exiled to Madeira in 1921, and died here in 1922. He was the one beatified by the Pope in 2004 and whose tomb we saw in Monte church.

Our first visit was to the Casa Museu Frederico de Freitas, where there is a tile museum, as well as the house which Senor de Freitas rented for 30 years and houses his collections. The tile museum was disappointing, because none of the signs was in any other language than Portuguese; there was no guide book and we were followed around by attendants as if we were about to pinch all the tiles, which were stuck to the walls or in glass cabinets anyway! The tiles themselves were pretty amazing, but it would have been more interesting if there were some information. No photography was allowed (which Tom accepted as a challenge) and there were CCTV cameras in all the rooms, however….

Tsk! tsk!

Casa de Calcada was Dr de Freitas’ abode until he died in 1978, when he left the contents of the house to the Municipal authorities. Showing amazing good sense, the said authorities bought the house so that they could display the contents in their original location. Again, no photography was allowed and no guide books were available, although there was a very brief English description of each room, and I mean brief eg “Kitchen – this has an interesting wood-burning stove and a selection of copper utensils”. It’s a beautiful house and is exceptionally well looked after. The collections are varied and eclectic. There are some wonderful pieces of English furniture (Sheraton, Hepplewhite and Chippendale), French inlaid miniature chests, china from all over the world, and some exquisite pieces of carved ivory. The Mug room has a huge collection of mugs and jugs, ranging from priceless Meissen to “kiss-me-quick” seaside tat (bare breasted ladies whose bosoms form a perfect thumb rest while you drink!). The Library holds a fine collection of books,in Portuguese, French and English covering a wide variety of subjects. There’s a delightful, tiny Winter Garden inside with a glass roof and a door leading to the outside formal garden, for if the weather was more clement.

Unlike our own stately homes open to the public, there are no barriers between you and the contents. Precious articles are within reach with just a few notices asking you not to touch, and small valuable items are wired. While we were there, a party of schoolchildren was being shown around by one of the curators. He was wearing gloves and items of particular interest would be picked up and demonstrated to them. He really had them enthralled, judging from the “wows” and “oohs” we could hear – they were certainly well-behaved and QUIET!

This time, Tom was NOT able to sneak any interior piccies as we had constant surveillance from the attendants. It seems odd that, not only can you not take photos, but there are no photographs or books for sale. I would love to have a good book about the house and its contents as it is so beautiful.

As we were leaving, Tom saw a leaflet advertising Holmes Place Health Club Funchal. Since Andy worked at, then managed HP in Chelsea and Islington for several years, we thought we’d pay it a visit. A very nice young man, speaking perfect English, showed us round, apologising for the fact that it’s the smallest HP club in the group, with no pool or sauna! It didn’t look very small to us and was fairly busy.

I was definitely flagging by then, so we stopped off at one of the coffee shops by the cathedral, where we were serenaded by a wandering accordion player – whether we wanted it or not! – and had to pay him off.

Then we wandered through the old town, down what was the first street in Funchal, Rua de Santa Maria, towards the Fortaleza de Sao Tiago (Fort of Santiago) where there are 2 museums – Military and Contemporary Art. You can guess which one Tom was interested in! It’s not exactly wide ranging, in fact, it’s just a small collection of guns! But still infinitely more interesting that “the bucket of poo” that comprises the Art collection. I’m sure some people would tell you that the “Large Bathtub” painting and the “Hanging Rock”, have deep meaning, but we failed to find it. (Tom says that the most interesting part of the “Hanging Rock ” was the rawl plug in the ceiling that the hook to hang it from was screwed into.)

The Fort itself was worth a visit and, although we found out as we were leaving that we should have paid to enter, nobody had stopped us and asked for money.

The Capelo do Corpo Santo is highly recommended in our guide book and is just round the corner from the Fort. Advertised as open from 3.00pm – 5.00pm, we couldn’t wait to see this “Baroque Jewel”, so on the dot of 3, we were hovering outside. The waitress in the café opposite said the man who opened up the Chapel, sometimes doesn’t appear until 20 past, so would we like a drink while we waited? This was a very good sales technique, so we sat and had a drink while we waited, and waited……..and waited. Then she said “oh, he sometimes doesn’t turn up at all”. Today was clearly one of those days!!

By that time, it was after 4.00pm, the weather had not improved so we decided to call it a day and go back. Just as well, as no sooner were we in the coach than it started to rain! Dinner tonight is the rest of the Chinese from last night.
Tom’s just got to do the photos for today, then he can go and post the blog for all you avid readers. So, bye for now.

Tuesday 27 and Wednesday 28 January

We set off this morning after breakfast to Palheiro Gardens to the northeast of Funchal. “If you only visit one garden on the island, make sure it’s Palheiro” says the guide book, so who are we to disagree?

Since the local bus service is so good, there’s no problem getting there, so we joined the happy Madeirans who had already been to market and were now on their way home laden with goodies. We stood for part of the way, hanging on for our lives as the bus ground its way ever upwards, taking the 90+ degree corners as if the driver thought he was on a race track! By the time we were halfway to Palheiro, most of the locals had left the bus, so at least we got seats – and were treated to more spectacular views over the city and harbour – no cruise ship today.

Once we reached the terminus, we had to walk about 400m downhill to the Garden entrance to find it was 10euros each to go in + 2euros for a guide leaflet. Oh well, we won’t be coming back here and it was recommended, so we paid our dues and in we went. January is not the best month to see these gardens! Although they are quite extensive, they’re not a patch on the Monte Palace Gardens (for the same price). Much of the area is given over to lawn; the newly formed rose garden is just bare earth with very young rose bushes, no foliage or flower yet and, although the magnolias and camellias had started to come into flower, the overall impression was dull. The only area I really liked was the lady’s garden, but even that had very little flowering in the beds. So it was a disappointing start to the day. We did have a nice drink in the tea rooms there, then set off on the next stage of our day – the levada walk from Palheiro to Romeiros, about 4 ½ miles.

But first, we had to climb back up to the village from where the instructions in the guide book said “walk 100m to a garage where you’ll see a sign pointing to the track to the Levada dos Tornos and the Jasmin Tea House”. Well, for a start, we missed the sign so walked further up yet another hill until we met a man who sent us back! The “track” was an almost vertical climb (it certainly felt like it to me!!) beside a water course taking some of the flow from the levada. Once on the flat it was OK and we set off towards Romeiros (the walk actually goes on to Monte, but this last part is the most difficult so Tom had decided we’d miss it out).

It was a very pleasant walk, among the trees and with a broad path so no scary drops! We met quite a lot of walkers travelling the other way – we were going up the levada and they had obviously decided going down was better, not that walking up was difficult as the levada is built on a very gradual downward slope. One couple we met on a bend with a very narrow pathway and a sheer drop to the road beneath. I wasn’t very happy but the man going the other way had to be led past us almost with his eyes closed! (It’s quite reassuring to meet someone else whose phobia is worse than you own!)

There are 2 cafes along the way, the Jasmine Tea Rooms and the Hortensia Tea Rooms. One couple we passed recommended Hortensia as “their orange cake is to die for”, so we duly decided that would do. It was further on the walk anyway, and when we reached it looked very pleasant. We had our drinks and orange cake, well worth the recommendation. The clouds had appeared again, so we donned our fleeces before setting off on the next leg.

The levada follows the contours of the land so it is a very wandering path. Some of the time we could hear traffic below us on the roads but couldn’t always see it. Other times there were clear views down and several times, we had to cross roads where the levada flowed underneath. Some of these were amazing – goodness knows what degree the slope was!

Beyond the tea rooms, a huge collection tank sits at a bend opposite a basic filtration system designed to clear the natural debris that collects in the levada. The tank is enormous. Above this, the water deepened to 1m – up to this point, it was about 60cm deep, but the levada itself is about 2m deep, so it clearly carries a lot more water at times. A little further on, we came upon an area where there had been a recent rock fall, creating a mini weir in the channel.

On one stretch, we passed through a private estate of very luxurious villas built on stilts – or at least, they would have been luxurious had the surroundings not been all overgrown and the villas themselves rather unkempt. This is the Choupana Lodge Holiday Spa and Resort.

The next stretch is also through woodland but it was much damper here and we had 3 streams to cross. These natural water courses coming off the hills are directed over the levada so that soil, leaves and stones don’t enter and block the flow. The streams were no more than 1cm deep so were no hazard. Shortly after crossing the third one, we could see the bus stop at Romeiros, but still had to walk another few hundred metres round the valley walls, then down some very steep steps to reach it.

Remember I said at the beginning of the holiday that we would either be very fit or knackered by the end of it? Well, Tom’s fit and I’m knackered!! I could hardly speak while we waited for the bus – the walk on top of the garden visit was just too much, either on their own would have been fine.

The bus trip down the hill was a revelation! Much of it was on roads NOT designed for 2 vehicles to pass, and with hairpin bends, there wasn’t much visibility, but we careered downwards anyway. Tom said that, as our driver was a mature man, he had clearly driven safely for years. But could it not have been that he was a young man aged prematurely by the hazards of the job?!? Whatever, we arrived safely but with a few more grey hairs of our own!

Having partaken of the Hortensia’s rather yummy cake at lunchtime, neither of us was hungry enough for dinner, so we bought a couple of Madeiran speciality breadsticks with bacon, cheese and garlic from the stand near the bus stop and brought them back here. With a packet of crisps and a glass of wine, it was a perfect supper.

Wednesday 28 January
I’m becoming fed up with feeling ill. I had an awful night, coughing, with a sore throat, and have been absolutely useless today! (You know what Tom will say to that statement!) My throat feels like sandpaper, I’ve used up nearly all the painkillers I brought from home AND those we’ve bought here, and wasted yet another day. Fortunately, the weather has not been so good - although it hasn’t rained, it has been very dull and quite cool. Tom’s read 2 books even though I told him he should go out, and just now (7.00pm) has gone to fetch Chinese takeaway to tempt me. He’s lovely really. Let’s hope I feel better tomorrow and we can do some of the Funchal visits we’ve been saving for the last few days.

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Monday 26 January

What a busy day this has been! As I said yesterday, we booked to go on the east island tour so were up and breakfasted by 9.00am ready for Andre. Josef arrived instead as Andre had taken a party walking at Pont da Sao Lourenco at the far east of Madeira. Josef is not part of Madeira Blue Sun but as it was his day off from the other company he works for, he was moonlighting. We were meant to pick up another couple from the Tivoli (5 star hotel), but on arrival found only one German lady, who was expecting to go on the west tour! So after protracted discussion, she retired in a huff and we set off on a personal tour! Let me say at this point, the weather was beautiful – full sun and warm – now read on!

Our first stop was Camacha (700m), which is the basket weaving centre. Here it was quite chilly but still sunny. In the factory, we watched 3 men and 1 woman making different items – as with all experts, they made it look so simple. There were lots of pieces I really liked, but with luggage space at a premium, I only bought 2 small baskets. Much of the furniture in the showroom is made by expert weavers from their homes in the town, and in the summer months, tourists can see them working in the back streets. Camacha is the first place in Portugal where football was played. In 1875, the English son of a local resident brought a football back from his public school, and taught others how to play. A garden now stands where this first pitch was with only a commemorative plaque to mark the spot.

The island is now football mad, and has 2 teams who play in the Portuguese Premier League. They have to fly to Portugal for all their away games, and the other Portuguese teams have to fly to the island for the home games. As they share the very modern stadium that has recently been built, they take it in turns to play, so there is a home game every week.

After Camacha, we went off the main roads westward onto rough country roads lined with acacia and mimosa trees, which have only started to bloom, but already look very pretty. (I know they have yellow flowers and you know that isn’t my favourite colour, but, yes, they do look very pretty in their natural settings!) The roads are rough because further up the hill, there is a soil treatment plant. This soil from the fertile upper slopes is cleaned and sent in huge lorries down to all the public gardens all over the island. As soon as we passed this plant, the road improved. We were now climbing into the start of the clouds but as yet they were thin and didn’t detract from the views.

On the far side of the valley were what I thought were a lot of dead trees. These are young sweet chestnut trees and they do not start to produce foliage until February. After they are harvested in October, a Chestnut Festival is held. We had a piece of chestnut cake yesterday when we stopped at Curral and the Madeirans also make a strong liqueur from the nuts.

The trees around us now were smaller firs and more acacia and mimosa. Still climbing, we reached Poiso at 1413m, then climbed further, now in low cloud so we couldn’t see anything much, to Pico de Areiro, 1818m. There are meant to be fantastic views over most of the centre of Madeira from here, but we had to take Josef’s word for this as we could only see about 20m in front of us!

As this is a dead end road, we turned and drove back down to Poiso. The vegetation on this higher ground is very scrubby with mostly heathers, gorse and ferns, similar to parts of Scotland and Wales. Some of the best honey is made by the bees that collect from this area and the land around Curral das Freiras.

Now we continued our trip northwards to Ribiero Frio, where the itinerary had a short walk planned. No chance! By this time, it was p**ing down, so we just had a coffee stop in the village, which is no more that a dozen houses. It does have a trout farm so we had a quick look at that then into the warm hostelry for a lovely cup of coffee beside an open log fire. There were lots of walkers around who had given up and were awaiting transport. Who wants to come to Madeira to walk in the rain when you can stay at home and do it more cheaply!

The next stage of the tour was continuing north up and down the San Roque de Faial valley, where we left the narrow main road and set off down an extremely winding single track, between houses (some were really only huts or hovels) all with terraced gardens growing all kinds of vegetables and fruit. There were some very nice properties interspersed with the hovels. Josef told us that these were mainly built by returning immigrants, many from Venezuela, but some from Russia and Eastern Europe.

A short history lesson now, so you can miss this bit out if you like! According to Josef, in 1931 the islanders rebelled against Salazar who tried to drain the island’s resources for his own gain. As a punishment, when Salazar, a fascist, became Portugal’s Prime Minister in 1939, he virtually abandoned Madeira and left the Madeirans to their own devices. Many emigrated during the 48 years of his “reign” to Venezuela, South Africa and Australia. When the army staged a coup in 1974 and the fascists were ousted from power, these emigrants started returning to Madeira and families who had been left behind. Many of these now are recultivating land that had been allowed to go wild. You can see from the overgrown terracing how much was once there. With all this new produce, Madeira now is self sufficient in nearly all the fruit and vegetables consumed and mainly it is the women who look after the gardens.

Forestation on the hills here is mostly eucalyptus, brought in from Australia and thriving on the island. The trees are only used for telegraph poles as the wood is too brittle to be used for much else.

At Faial on the north coast, we stopped at a viewpoint which was once a small fort protecting the inhabitants from the pirate raids. Faial is built in the shadow of a huge outcrop called Eagle Rock and the viewpoint is on a promontory opposite the rock. As we have come to expect, the views were amazing – yes, it had stopped raining and we could see in the distance again! We were due to have lunch there, so put in our orders, then set off northwest to the “city” of Santana. The largest settlements on the island have been given “city” status in order to be able to claim funding from the EU for the interconnecting roads and tunnels that have transformed the transport system. Pictures of Santana always show their traditional “A”shaped thatched cottages, so we were expecting to see lots of them. Not so! We saw about a dozen altogether, and could only get into 2 of them.

One belongs to a Madeiran who emigrated to Venezuela and when he returned to reclaim the property he’d left behind, he lived in the A frame house while he was building a more modern one at the rear. The A frame house still retains the original furniture from that time, and looks as though it’s still being lived in. (In fact, judging from the smell in the tiny bathroom, it just might be!!). We gave him a contribution, in return for which he gave us a drink of very potent home made coffee liqueur and a biscuit, then insisted on showing us round his garden, which was actually fascinating. All kinds of plants were crammed in so that wherever you looked, there was something different. He had lots of beautiful orchids, including a tiny flowered one which had the most delicious scent. Unfortunately, due to the language barrier, we couldn’t find out what it was called apart from “orchid”! He had a custard apple tree in one corner and gave us a large custard apple from it, which he said would be ready to eat in 2 days – so I’ll let you know the verdict!

The other “house” we could enter, was one of an immaculate pair, landscaped prettily and looking almost brand new. This was set up as a workshop for a lady who weaves traditional Madeiran cloths on a hand loom, but she didn’t speak English and there was no literature either about the houses or the weaving, so I was disappointed. Apart from that, we saw nothing in Santana of interest. As with many of the smaller villages, poverty is quite prevalent with many empty and derelict houses, and land left wild.

Back on the road to Faial, we took the recently constructed new road through one of the innumerable tunnels. According to Josef, there are 146 tunnels here, with more planned. Lunch was at the Restaurant Grutas where we had pre-ordered meat as our main course. Fish was brought instead, so there was a short wait while they cooked our steaks, but they were very good when they did arrive. The restaurant is inside a cave – warm in winter, “fresh” in summer as it was described to us. We had traditional cabbage soup for starters (delicious) and what we thought was a crème caramel (CC) for afters. Tom loves CC so tucked in with gusto – for one mouthful!! It looked like CC, it even smelt like CC, but it tasted like it was made with something like semolina, quite stodgy and with a very strange tasting sauce, which I think may have been passion fruit as there’s a lot of that here.

Having been satisfactorily filled with food and wine, we took yet another winding road to Porto da Cruz where we stopped at a viewpoint to look back at the other face of Eagle Rock. An attempt was made here to persuade us to buy plants and seeds at some roadside stalls – the stallholders were quite pushy and we think Josef had an arrangement with them, as he dropped us off by the viewpoint then drove to the other side of the stalls, forcing us to make our way past them. We did buy some strelitzia (bird of Paradise) seeds, as we had already decided we’d like to try growing some in the conservatory. They tried to persuade us to buy all sorts of other seeds, bulbs and plants, but we weren’t interested, so they weren’t very happy about it. Tough!

Back in the bus again and on to Portela, the gateway between north and south. Then on to Machico on the east coast, where we went round the town to the north and east to a lookout point where we could see the Airport and the only bit of real sand, which Josef said has been imported from Morocco. We watched a couple of planes take off after which we drove north to Canical, where the new container port and Industrial area has been built. All container ships used to come into Funchal harbour, and there was a huge container park right in the centre of the city, with lorries continually loading and unloading right where the cruise ships docked. The decision was made to move the commercial port to Canical, which has a sheltered location. It had the dual advantage of freeing Funchal from the heavy lorry traffic and providing employment in a very impoverished area. Canical used to be the whaling centre and with the ban on whaling, there were no alternative jobs so unemployment was rife. 5 years ago the port was opened and an entire new industrial area has built up around it. This forms the eastern end of the system of new roads and tunnels serving the north and south and with the planned extensions of infrastructure at the west end, there will eventually be a complete loop around the island.

Our last part of the sight seeing day was to drive out almost as far east as you can drive on the island, to the Sao Lourenco peninsula where we were treated to spectacular views along north and south coasts. Driving back on the Via Rapida to Funchal, you pass under the extended runway of the airport, built on 172 concrete stilts as they had already used all of the available land. According to Josef, there has only been one aircraft accident on Madeira (before the runway was extended) caused by a pilot attempting an approach in visibility below minimum. Over 100 people lost their lives when the plane hit the vertical lip at the end of the runway, broke apart and fell into the sea. Only 2 people were saved, a baby and a young boy, who still lives on the island but has never recovered from the trauma of losing his entire family in the crash. We’ve bought postcards of the airport with the extension clearly visible, and as Tom says, he would not wish to lose an engine at a critical stage as there is NO room to manoeuvre. Left or right, you choose the rock face OR the ocean! No wonder our pilot wouldn’t attempt the landing in less that 5km visibility.
As the traffic was heavy, Josef came off the Via Rapido and wended our way back via the old roads, seeing a little more of the old Funchal on the way. It was a long and interesting day, marred only by the fact that we couldn’t go on our walk and we couldn’t see the stunning views from Pico de Arriero that are shown in the guide books. No dinner tonight – we’re still stuffed from lunch – and I wonder what the stroppy German lady did all day?!?

Monday 26 January

What a busy day this has been! As I said yesterday, we booked to go on the east island tour so were up and breakfasted by 9.00am ready for Andre. Josef arrived instead as Andre had taken a party walking at Pont da Sao Lourenco at the far east of Madeira. Josef is not part of Madeira Blue Sun but as it was his day off from the other company he works for, he was moonlighting. We were meant to pick up another couple from the Tivoli (5 star hotel), but on arrival found only one German lady, who was expecting to go on the west tour! So after protracted discussion, she retired in a huff and we set off on a personal tour! Let me say at this point, the weather was beautiful – full sun and warm – now read on!

Our first stop was Camacha (700m), which is the basket weaving centre. Here it was quite chilly but still sunny. In the factory, we watched 3 men and 1 woman making different items – as with all experts, they made it look so simple. There were lots of pieces I really liked, but with luggage space at a premium, I only bought 2 small baskets. Much of the furniture in the showroom is made by expert weavers from their homes in the town, and in the summer months, tourists can see them working in the back streets. Camacha is the first place in Portugal where football was played. In 1875, the English son of a local resident brought a football back from his public school, and taught others how to play. A garden now stands where this first pitch was with only a commemorative plaque to mark the spot.

The island is now football mad, and has 2 teams who play in the Portuguese Premier League. They have to fly to Portugal for all their away games, and the other Portuguese teams have to fly to the island for the home games. As they share the very modern stadium that has recently been built, they take it in turns to play, so there is a home game every week.

After Camacha, we went off the main roads westward onto rough country roads lined with acacia and mimosa trees, which have only started to bloom, but already look very pretty. (I know they have yellow flowers and you know that isn’t my favourite colour, but, yes, they do look very pretty in their natural settings!) The roads are rough because further up the hill, there is a soil treatment plant. This soil from the fertile upper slopes is cleaned and sent in huge lorries down to all the public gardens all over the island. As soon as we passed this plant, the road improved. We were now climbing into the start of the clouds but as yet they were thin and didn’t detract from the views.

On the far side of the valley were what I thought were a lot of dead trees. These are young sweet chestnut trees and they do not start to produce foliage until February. After they are harvested in October, a Chestnut Festival is held. We had a piece of chestnut cake yesterday when we stopped at Curral and the Madeirans also make a strong liqueur from the nuts.

The trees around us now were smaller firs and more acacia and mimosa. Still climbing, we reached Poiso at 1413m, then climbed further, now in low cloud so we couldn’t see anything much, to Pico de Areiro, 1818m. There are meant to be fantastic views over most of the centre of Madeira from here, but we had to take Josef’s word for this as we could only see about 20m in front of us!

As this is a dead end road, we turned and drove back down to Poiso. The vegetation on this higher ground is very scrubby with mostly heathers, gorse and ferns, similar to parts of Scotland and Wales. Some of the best honey is made by the bees that collect from this area and the land around Curral das Freiras.

Now we continued our trip northwards to Ribiero Frio, where the itinerary had a short walk planned. No chance! By this time, it was p**ing down, so we just had a coffee stop in the village, which is no more that a dozen houses. It does have a trout farm so we had a quick look at that then into the warm hostelry for a lovely cup of coffee beside an open log fire. There were lots of walkers around who had given up and were awaiting transport. Who wants to come to Madeira to walk in the rain when you can stay at home and do it more cheaply!

The next stage of the tour was continuing north up and down the San Roque de Faial valley, where we left the narrow main road and set off down an extremely winding single track, between houses (some were really only huts or hovels) all with terraced gardens growing all kinds of vegetables and fruit. There were some very nice properties interspersed with the hovels. Josef told us that these were mainly built by returning immigrants, many from Venezuela, but some from Russia and Eastern Europe.

A short history lesson now, so you can miss this bit out if you like! According to Josef, in 1931 the islanders rebelled against Salazar who tried to drain the island’s resources for his own gain. As a punishment, when Salazar, a fascist, became Portugal’s Prime Minister in 1939, he virtually abandoned Madeira and left the Madeirans to their own devices. Many emigrated during the 48 years of his “reign” to Venezuela, South Africa and Australia. When the army staged a coup in 1974 and the fascists were ousted from power, these emigrants started returning to Madeira and families who had been left behind. Many of these now are recultivating land that had been allowed to go wild. You can see from the overgrown terracing how much was once there. With all this new produce, Madeira now is self sufficient in nearly all the fruit and vegetables consumed and mainly it is the women who look after the gardens.

Forestation on the hills here is mostly eucalyptus, brought in from Australia and thriving on the island. The trees are only used for telegraph poles as the wood is too brittle to be used for much else.

At Faial on the north coast, we stopped at a viewpoint which was once a small fort protecting the inhabitants from the pirate raids. Faial is built in the shadow of a huge outcrop called Eagle Rock and the viewpoint is on a promontory opposite the rock. As we have come to expect, the views were amazing – yes, it had stopped raining and we could see in the distance again! We were due to have lunch there, so put in our orders, then set off northwest to the “city” of Santana. The largest settlements on the island have been given “city” status in order to be able to claim funding from the EU for the interconnecting roads and tunnels that have transformed the transport system. Pictures of Santana always show their traditional “A”shaped thatched cottages, so we were expecting to see lots of them. Not so! We saw about a dozen altogether, and could only get into 2 of them.

One belongs to a Madeiran who emigrated to Venezuela and when he returned to reclaim the property he’d left behind, he lived in the A frame house while he was building a more modern one at the rear. The A frame house still retains the original furniture from that time, and looks as though it’s still being lived in. (In fact, judging from the smell in the tiny bathroom, it just might be!!). We gave him a contribution, in return for which he gave us a drink of very potent home made coffee liqueur and a biscuit, then insisted on showing us round his garden, which was actually fascinating. All kinds of plants were crammed in so that wherever you looked, there was something different. He had lots of beautiful orchids, including a tiny flowered one which had the most delicious scent. Unfortunately, due to the language barrier, we couldn’t find out what it was called apart from “orchid”! He had a custard apple tree in one corner and gave us a large custard apple from it, which he said would be ready to eat in 2 days – so I’ll let you know the verdict!

The other “house” we could enter, was one of an immaculate pair, landscaped prettily and looking almost brand new. This was set up as a workshop for a lady who weaves traditional Madeiran cloths on a hand loom, but she didn’t speak English and there was no literature either about the houses or the weaving, so I was disappointed. Apart from that, we saw nothing in Santana of interest. As with many of the smaller villages, poverty is quite prevalent with many empty and derelict houses, and land left wild.

Back on the road to Faial, we took the recently constructed new road through one of the innumerable tunnels. According to Josef, there are 146 tunnels here, with more planned. Lunch was at the Restaurant Grutas where we had pre-ordered meat as our main course. Fish was brought instead, so there was a short wait while they cooked our steaks, but they were very good when they did arrive. The restaurant is inside a cave – warm in winter, “fresh” in summer as it was described to us. We had traditional cabbage soup for starters (delicious) and what we thought was a crème caramel (CC) for afters. Tom loves CC so tucked in with gusto – for one mouthful!! It looked like CC, it even smelt like CC, but it tasted like it was made with something like semolina, quite stodgy and with a very strange tasting sauce, which I think may have been passion fruit as there’s a lot of that here.

Having been satisfactorily filled with food and wine, we took yet another winding road to Porto da Cruz where we stopped at a viewpoint to look back at the other face of Eagle Rock. An attempt was made here to persuade us to buy plants and seeds at some roadside stalls – the stallholders were quite pushy and we think Josef had an arrangement with them, as he dropped us off by the viewpoint then drove to the other side of the stalls, forcing us to make our way past them. We did buy some strelitzia (bird of Paradise) seeds, as we had already decided we’d like to try growing some in the conservatory. They tried to persuade us to buy all sorts of other seeds, bulbs and plants, but we weren’t interested, so they weren’t very happy about it. Tough!

Back in the bus again and on to Portela, the gateway between north and south. Then on to Machico on the east coast, where we went round the town to the north and east to a lookout point where we could see the Airport and the only bit of real sand, which Josef said has been imported from Morocco. We watched a couple of planes take off after which we drove north to Canical, where the new container port and Industrial area has been built. All container ships used to come into Funchal harbour, and there was a huge container park right in the centre of the city, with lorries continually loading and unloading right where the cruise ships docked. The decision was made to move the commercial port to Canical, which has a sheltered location. It had the dual advantage of freeing Funchal from the heavy lorry traffic and providing employment in a very impoverished area. Canical used to be the whaling centre and with the ban on whaling, there were no alternative jobs so unemployment was rife. 5 years ago the port was opened and an entire new industrial area has built up around it. This forms the eastern end of the system of new roads and tunnels serving the north and south and with the planned extensions of infrastructure at the west end, there will eventually be a complete loop around the island.

Our last part of the sight seeing day was to drive out almost as far east as you can drive on the island, to the Sao Lourenco peninsula where we were treated to spectacular views along north and south coasts.

Driving back on the Via Rapida to Funchal, you pass under the extended runway of the airport, built on 172 concrete stilts as they had already used all of the available land. According to Josef, there has only been one aircraft accident on Madeira (before the runway was extended) caused by a pilot attempting an approach in visibility below minimum. Over 100 people lost their lives when the plane hit the vertical lip at the end of the runway, broke apart and fell into the sea. Only 2 people were saved, a baby and a young boy, who still lives on the island but has never recovered from the trauma of losing his entire family in the crash. We’ve bought postcards of the airport with the extension clearly visible, and as Tom says, he would not wish to lose an engine at a critical stage as there is NO room to manoeuvre. Left or right, you choose the rock face OR the ocean! No wonder our pilot wouldn’t attempt the landing in less that 5km visibility.
As the traffic was heavy, Josef came off the Via Rapido and wended our way back via the old roads, seeing a little more of the old Funchal on the way. It was a long and interesting day, marred only by the fact that we couldn’t go on our walk and we couldn’t see the stunning views from Pico de Arriero that are shown in the guide books. No dinner tonight – we’re still stuffed from lunch – and I wonder what the stroppy German lady did all day?!?

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Sunday 25 January

I can’t seem to shake off whatever is “bugging” me as I woke today feeling dizzy – and I can’t even blame a hard night on the booze! However, nothing was going to stop us going on the trip.

We were a full minibus of 8 + Andre and unfortunately, we had a real pain with us – no, NOT Tom! A registered blind man called George who should be registered as a liability. He didn’t stop talking almost the entire time except, thank goodness, when Andre was giving us information – well, most of the time anyway!

Our first stop was at a viewpoint called the Miradouro do Pico dos Barcelos, altitude 355m, giving us what Andre described as a 365 degree (!!) view over Funchal. It was a fantastic location, and lived up to his description, although Tom moaned that he couldn’t find the missing 5 degrees – perhaps they’re on Platform 9 ¾ !! As we were enjoying the view, the bells were ringing in one of the churches on one of the hills surrounding the town They were playing Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy” and pretty well too.

We then had another interesting drive up into the hills, with Andre deciding that, in order to show us the vertical drop on the opposite side of the road, he’d just drive on that side, as you do!! And guess who was sitting on that side of the bus – yes, that’s right, it was ME! The next point I remember is stopping to take in yet some more precipitous views down into a chasm, which is the valley paralleling the Socorridos river valley, which is the one leading to Curral das Freiras.

I’d better explain the story of why the village of Curral das Freiras is so called. It translates as the Nuns’ Refuge. In 1566, the Nuns of Santa Clara were fleeing from French pirates who had already murdered the Governor of Madeira and all the soldiers guarding the castle. They headed up the Socorridos River valley and took refuge in the area which is now called Curral das Freiras. Even today, there is no road access up the river valley and the main road now goes up the parallel valley then through a tunnel into Curral. Until the 20th century, the only access was up the parallel valley to the ridge between the 2 valleys, called Eira do Serrado, from where a narrow zigzag path had been built leading down to the settlement which had sprung up at Curral. In the 20th century, a precipitous road was built leading down to Curral, but with the construction of the tunnel, this route is now closed.

We drove up to Eira do Serrado on the old road where the views are stupendous. It’s mind-boggling how the Madeirans continue to build their houses on these almost vertical mountain sides – and there is building going on everywhere you look. We take for granted all this flat land we have in UK and there is nothing flat HERE. Truly amazing.

After a “pee” stop at Eira, Andre asked which of us would like to do the walk, which is advertised in their brochure as being “facultative” ie. Easy! He showed us the start of the footpath and said he’d meet us at the other end in just over an hour. As George had informed us he was registered blind, we didn’t expect him to take part in the walk that was scheduled as part of today’s itinerary. But no, even though we could see that the path started off quite steeply, he was going to do it and elected himself our leader. (It turns out that he has hardly any peripheral vision but can see quite clearly straight ahead.)

Andre provided staves for those of us who didn’t have walking poles (we did) as they would help on the way. What he hadn’t told us was that the path starting at 3600ft, goes all the way to Curral, dropping 1500ft in the process and only over half a mile horizontally. The relentless downhill slope took us an hour and a quarter, led by George for most of the way, chivvying us “girls” and trying to round us up like a sheepdog if anyone looked as if they weren’t keeping up. Tom appointed himself as back marker so he could make sure everyone was OK – although what we could have done if anyone did get into difficulties, I’m not sure. It was the hardest walk I’ve ever done and I did slip at one point, sat down quite hard and had difficulty getting up again. But one of the men, who hadn’t mentioned that last year, he fell and broke 3 ribs and had a back injury, was in real trouble by the time we got ¾ of the way down. He ended up walking bent over to the right by about 20 degrees, using his stick to stop him falling over.

I was very relieved to see the minibus waiting for us at the end and even more relieved when we then stopped in Curral for a very welcome coffee and cake and a loo stop! Looking back, we could see the hillside path we had just walked down. George still hadn’t stopped yakking! I’ve decided Tom isn’t SO bad after all – George’s wife must be a saint!

Looking down the valley from Curral, you can see 2 or 3 settlements. As I’ve already written, there is no road access up that valley from Funchal, so the only way in and out for these residents is to come all the way up to Curral, through the tunnel and down the other valley – it’s a very long way round!

Although there is no convent at Curral, occasionally an odd (!!) nun can be seen there!
The drive back through the tunnel and down the hill was uneventful and we dropped off George and party first, thank goodness, so we had a little peace and quiet on the last couple of miles. Chatting to Andre on the way back, we agreed that, as we haven’t seen the eastern part of Madeira yet, and there is space in the bus, we would join the day trip tomorrow. When we got into the hotel, Tom booked it, so it’s another early start.

Saturday 24 January

Sunshine and clouds again today – this seems to be the way of most days just now. Several times we’ve put on warmer clothes because it’s been quite cool up here, and by the time we get into town, it’s so warm, we have to take a layer off. So for any of you planning to come here, layers is definitely the answer – and a lightweight rucksack to carry around for all the spare bits!

We did the “chores” this morning (blog and the posting thereof, and the washing) and walked into town this afternoon to St Catherine’s garden, just on the west side of the main street. A pod from one of the Kapok trees had burst and spread it’s contents over one of the lawns – it must think it’s February already. Like everywhere else, the garden is built on a slope with wonderful views over the harbour, where there was yet another cruise ship in – the Costa Serena. After a perambulate round and an ice cream, we wandered all the way through town. As it’s Saturday, most of the shops close in the afternoon, but there was a craft market on in Avenue Arriaga, near the Palace of Sao Lourenco. There was lots of jewellery and sewn items but nothing we saw to make us buy. It was very peaceful to walk around unaccosted, although the accosting is nothing like we have experienced or hear of in other countries.

We had a chat to an old guy last night who was handing out cards for a café (the one we ate in) and he said that because the island is so dependant on tourism, with this being “low” season and the recession hitting pretty much everywhere, they are all fighting for custom. He said that for the older generation, the lack of jobs is not such a problem but for the youngsters, there’s not a lot to keep them on the island for the future. They also have a problem with immigrants from the newer EU members and also from Venezuela and Brazil.

A nice Pasteleria (cake shop to you) beckoned us in one of the precincts, so, having worked up an appetite on our garden walk, we sampled a couple, with coffee (Tom) and hot chocolate (me) while watching the locals and trying to work out what was written on a board in the café. We took a photo so that Amy can translate for us when we get home.

The courtesy coach brought us back here again at 6 o’clock. The washing’s almost dry and I’ve got my feet up on the chair while I write this as my ankles are swelling. We haven’t decided yet where to go for dinner – we’re so spoilt for choice round here – we even found an Indian restaurant just round the corner too. We’ve just watched the cruise ship sail away to who-knows-where, so I’ll finish for now and add the finishing touches later.

Evening

We ate at a little bar/restaurant just across the road and had the best steak we’ve had here – or at least, I did, as Tom had a shrimp salad, which turned out to be what we call king prawns! Anyway we were both delighted with our meals and will definitely be going back there.
An early-ish night was called on as we had to be up early for our half day trip to Curral das Freiras.

Saturday 24 January

Sunshine and clouds again today – this seems to be the way of most days just now. Several times we’ve put on warmer clothes because it’s been quite cool up here, and by the time we get into town, it’s so warm, we have to take a layer off. So for any of you planning to come here, layers is definitely the answer – and a lightweight rucksack to carry around for all the spare bits!

We did the “chores” this morning (blog and the posting thereof, and the washing) and walked into town this afternoon to St Catherine’s garden, just on the west side of the main street. A pod from one of the Kapok trees had burst and spread it’s contents over one of the lawns – it must think it’s February already. Like everywhere else, the garden is built on a slope with wonderful views over the harbour, where there was yet another cruise ship in – the Costa Serena. After a perambulate round and an ice cream, we wandered all the way through town. As it’s Saturday, most of the shops close in the afternoon, but there was a craft market on in Avenue Arriaga, near the Palace of Sao Lourenco. There was lots of jewellery and sewn items but nothing we saw to make us buy. It was very peaceful to walk around unaccosted, although the accosting is nothing like we have experienced or hear of in other countries.

We had a chat to an old guy last night who was handing out cards for a café (the one we ate in) and he said that because the island is so dependant on tourism, with this being “low” season and the recession hitting pretty much everywhere, they are all fighting for custom. He said that for the older generation, the lack of jobs is not such a problem but for the youngsters, there’s not a lot to keep them on the island for the future. They also have a problem with immigrants from the newer EU members and also from Venezuela and Brazil.

A nice Pasteleria (cake shop to you) beckoned us in one of the precincts, so, having worked up an appetite on our garden walk, we sampled a couple, with coffee (Tom) and hot chocolate (me) while watching the locals and trying to work out what was written on a board in the café. We took a photo so that Amy can translate for us when we get home.

The courtesy coach brought us back here again at 6 o’clock. The washing’s almost dry and I’ve got my feet up on the chair while I write this as my ankles are swelling. We haven’t decided yet where to go for dinner – we’re so spoilt for choice round here – we even found an Indian restaurant just round the corner too. We’ve just watched the cruise ship sail away to who-knows-where, so I’ll finish for now and add the finishing touches later.

Evening

We ate at a little bar/restaurant just across the road and had the best steak we’ve had here – or at least, I did, as Tom had a shrimp salad, which turned out to be what we call king prawns! Anyway we were both delighted with our meals and will definitely be going back there.
An early-ish night was called on as we had to be up early for our half day trip to Curral das Freiras.